reaching autopoiesis (Final Notes)

In May 2014 Needlefeed & Company officially closed. After many years of quiet hibernation and stillness the site had to be reconsidered. As of now it acts as an archive of production and process – both of which were lead by the Brother DB2-B791-015. The site will remain here as long as possible, but is now an index, an archive, and officially a project.

What started as a complete investigation into industrial sewing and it’s various machinery became a quest of sorts pulling materials and ideas together to think about the way things are made and why. Not for sake of commerce or not. But rather for sake of formal considerations, the literal point where shape-values were constructed from physical materials. As the site progressed the articles became more and more invested in projects, sewn products built on the bed of the Brother DB2-B791-015. And as those products materialized, the time for notation became less and less, to the point that the sewing was only followed by visual documentation. Eventually the products, the projects, the ideas, and the notions, the thoughts and the pondering all happened within the studio. Of course this studio wasn’t just a location housing tools, it was a hive mind of machinery, contexts, experiences, conceptualizing, relating, critiquing, and disguising. In a way, NFCO had come to completion well before the projects did, even though the site insisted on little steps forward. From late summer of 2010 all the way through the winter of 2013/2014 the process continued but at such a rapid and abstract pace that the text had to be put aside. The motions jumped from one side to another, and the projects and process became more and more conceptual. The potential for creation had reached the point in which it truly had sorted itself out. NFCO had undergone autopoiesis and found it no longer needed to format itself in this site.

Perhaps over time some of these moments, some of these ghost moments, the lost parts, the lost articles, the lost thoughts will come back together. Perhaps when they do, they will form into a map of everything that NFCO had become, and now can be. A diagram – a place to push our fingers about and feel the texture of material become.

Thank you, tony

SNF Backpack

This backpack is actually a bright vibrating purple. It seems that the white balance on it is quite peculiar and must be intimidated by it’s liveliness.

This backpack was built to be a summer weight pack for commuting and day hikes. The material used for its construction were generously donated by Karl at SLO Sail and Canvas. Without the literature on the materials specifics it is hard to say what they are exactly, but taking a bold guess, we would determine the exterior to be 4oz.-6oz. per square yard coated rip-stop (nylon), and the interior to be a slightly lighter weight 4oz. coated oxford nylon. These two together provide plenty of structure for the bags overall weight. One interior pocket made from NFCO scraps will do just enough organizing to keep you sane, and the one heavy cotton section of webbing on the front side is appropriately sized to slip a U-Lock into. Along the side-seams are small sections of nylon webbing for potential cording to be strung through to add carrying capacity to the backpack. The shoulder straps are made from Cloud insole padding for shoes wrapped in the same lightweight nylon used for the interior of the bag, topped with upcycled seat belt webbing for added structure (no sternum strap). Anchored at the top, the shoulder straps descend to 1″ wide side-release buckles for easy on and off. There is one secret note on this backpack: on the inside is a 3/4″ side-release buckle that spans (with 3/4″ webbing) across the bag, side to side (towards the top of the bags storage area). With this buckle securely fastened, the top of the bag will roll-close with less bulk on either side. Decreasing this bulk is done by making the role itself of only one layer of the lightweight interior nylon. This compact rolling reduces the blind-spot so common on “messenger backpacks”. This detail increases the bags efficiency when moving around, seeing around, and navigating tight spaces.

[the] Z jackeT

This represents the foremost movement of what will become two different jackets: the Zjacket and the Tjacket. The specifics of both are quite immense and call for a lot of notes and interjections. These jackets will run circles around each other.

The Zjacket will be something very simple and unique. It will be made from raw canvas, twice washed and twice dried. Some of the qualities which it must maintain are unfinished edges along the front opening and over the shoulders behind the neck, across the bottom hem, and around the wrist area of each sleeve (no official cuffs). It should be made from only five panels (two for each arm, two for the front, and one back panel [i.e. no shoulder yoke]). There may be a single button placed at each cuff, but there should not be any lapped collar, or closure on the front. The Zjacket makes an ideal foundation for the Tjacket. While the Zjacket will be extraordinarily simple, the Tjacket will be made for a harsher environment, thus it will call for closure in the front and additional pockets, patches for reenforcement and further tailoring.

Both jackets address a new learning curve for NFCO production. Thus far the most challenging aspect in building these jackets is fitting the shoulder into the body. This junctionis referred to as the armscye, and it appears that a lot of time will be spent sorting this connection out.