smocking

The smocks above were made for ‘smockshop Berlin’ @ SprüthMagers – Presented by Andrea Zittel (February 2009). The focus for these four was to make the fit more specific to the wearer. The pattern was created by looking at the original smock pattern and a pattern for a vest (of sorts). Thus the slight tails that are achieved on both the front and the back, these seem to elongate the look, whereas a flat bottom (hem) tends to make the garment look a bit generic. The fit was tailored overall to be more ergonomic, but the most significant improvements came in the area between the neck and shoulders. The collars stand about two inches tall and have a slight sweep back. Also, the collars now work with the shape of the garment and no longer have awkward dips in the back, or somewhat mal-alignment in the front like the older generations. The shoulders are close cropped, paying attention to the sweep of the wearer’s trapezius. This alteration was highly considered to keep the smock as close fitting as possible: part of which, meant a careful consideration of how the two panels (front and back) overlap – thus meeting under the armpit. Lastly the deep V of the front was tightened up to be a cleaner aesthetically and more logically constructed from the builders stand-point. As for next time, we’re looking at how to make the back pucker less when the belt spans the back. One option was to use two buckles on each side, while another was to lose the belt altogether, except this may render the smock, less of a smock, and more of a strange vest/shirt thing.