Preface: The Fashion District

The Fashion District photos are starting to come in and there will hopefully be new posts based upon them in the next week or so. There will be a section to display the various industrial sewing machine shops, and their corresponding contact info plus some short reviews of what may make them different from the rest. A section for a (recently discovered although certainly not new to the industry) machine that is marketed towards sewing sleeves and or pant legs, which clears up a lot of interest in how certain leg-forms are built (although it is not an end-all factor by any means, you can make all sorts of flat-felled seams, or actual industry standard double-lap seams on any basic drop-feed machine with a standard bed). Also there should be a post for a few new Presser feet that have been discovered – this should lead into a more adept photo review of the Brother’s current feet. Another article on some of the post-style machines that were found, which are often used by cobblers and bag makers to sew very hard to reach places (post-style machines include horizontal and vertical posts, with the feed mechanism being in an assortment of places at the ends of those posts). And then a few other miscellaneous posts (not to be confused with the posts of the post-style machines). for some of the aesthetically pleasing images that were captured of unique machines,

Up To Date.2 [news from the district]

So there were a lot of small threads today that started to find a way about which is starting to help explain the presser foot dilema.  After talking to about eight or nine or sixteen different people it became apparent that no “gated” or “guide” type presser foot is actually made for a needle feed machine.  Many of the shops in the Los Angeles fashion district had suggested that the presser feet for regular drop feed machines be used, and therefore customized either with a Dremel tool, milling machine, drill bit, etc.  Some of the shops were willing to take all of the Brother’s unusable feet and customize them – which – if nothing else is a good sign that this is at least done once in awhile and is not entirely absurd.  However, there was one shop (Eddy Sewing Machine) that assured there are actually feet made for a needle feed machine with the guides, but because of how low demand is for them, they would cost up to $75 a piece.  Of course for $75 one would figure to just customize their drop feed feet which only cost them between $2 and $15 (food for thought; three new feet were bought for the Brother [obviously with the intention of customizing them] at the price of $12 for all three – and that was for the very best quality “Linko” feet – whereas in other areas of the country they are much more expensive, in Chicago a single presser foot of lower quality will cost you at least $12).  Although (however.2) at the same shop (Eddy Sewing Machine) they had “gated” or “guide” type presser feet for a needle feed Singer 111(?).  unfortunately these have a different shape in regards to the way they mate up to the machine, so they were out of the question.  Either way, when all is said and done at the end of the day – more is said than done – well actually, if nothing else aside from the peculiar $75 presser feet that only one shop had to offer, it stands that no presser feet are provided for needle feed machines of the same type as the Brother DB2-B791-o15.  This is okay, it is what was expected and at this rate not very surprising considering all the little technicalities that arise when using industrial sewing machines.

Intermission

For quick relief from the Brother DB2-B791-015/industrial sewing machine information, here are some pictures of shoes made on the Brother. They are constructed from canvas and leather (two sheets of leather, one at 5/64″ and another at 1/8″), with “Extra Strong” 100% Polyester thread by Gütermann (sometimes spelled Guterman, Gueterman, or Gutterman in the States). The leather is very basic rawhide ordered from McMasterCarr, and the canvas is picked out from bulk at Michael Levine Fabric in the heart of Los Angeles’ fashion district. The soles are made of two pieces of leather – the midsole (5/64″) being sewn to the canvas upper (with a canvas insole) and then the bottom sole (1/8″) being glued to the midsole with PowerPoxy “Super Crystal Clear” and “Shoe Glue” Adhesive. All of the template is taken right from the foot, without any pre-determined pattern. Some bias tape is used as necessary to clean up the raw edges between the upper and insole, so the canvas does not fray too much. These shoes were made initially as a small project for something which lived between performance and sculpture. As it turns out, they are quite comfy and totally slick in the pedestrian sense of the word. Since their inauguration in the spring of 2006, many more pairs have been made with small improvements along the way. Although they are not completely refined they do enjoy use by a select few.