FKAS

These pieces are related to the next phase of the smockshop with Andrea Zittel. Formerly Know As smockshop – or FKAS – is a web extension of the smockshop: creating objects through the idea of panel as flat and rectangular in at least one respect. These are Pocket Pouches: pocket devices to keep the user organized in an unobtrusive way. Store, fold once, fold again (if you wish), place, break in, pin-up, lay-flat, stand alone.

smocking

The smocks above were made for ‘smockshop Berlin’ @ SprüthMagers – Presented by Andrea Zittel (February 2009). The focus for these four was to make the fit more specific to the wearer. The pattern was created by looking at the original smock pattern and a pattern for a vest (of sorts). Thus the slight tails that are achieved on both the front and the back, these seem to elongate the look, whereas a flat bottom (hem) tends to make the garment look a bit generic. The fit was tailored overall to be more ergonomic, but the most significant improvements came in the area between the neck and shoulders. The collars stand about two inches tall and have a slight sweep back. Also, the collars now work with the shape of the garment and no longer have awkward dips in the back, or somewhat mal-alignment in the front like the older generations. The shoulders are close cropped, paying attention to the sweep of the wearer’s trapezius. This alteration was highly considered to keep the smock as close fitting as possible: part of which, meant a careful consideration of how the two panels (front and back) overlap – thus meeting under the armpit. Lastly the deep V of the front was tightened up to be a cleaner aesthetically and more logically constructed from the builders stand-point. As for next time, we’re looking at how to make the back pucker less when the belt spans the back. One option was to use two buckles on each side, while another was to lose the belt altogether, except this may render the smock, less of a smock, and more of a strange vest/shirt thing.

smocking

The smock is a slightly more abstract endeavor. It is a shop/project/activation/wellness/building designed to increase our everyday comfort through form and function (for the Brother function preceding form in these initial instances).

The object-as-smock begins with Andrea Zittel and her fellow smockers in Los Angeles (see – www.smockshop.org) and continues from there to all areas of art/design, culture, and textiles. Considering some of these smocks have been made on this machine, we will discuss it briefly here. Because the Brother DB2-B791-015 has been a kind of testing ground for materials which may suit function more than form (this of course applies to all the whereabouts of this machines production) – and considering that the smock is inherently more useful than it is decoration (temporarily at least – as you will see), this (the smocking) was/is a good testing place for the materials and how well they reacted to the machine, fitting over forms, taking form, and resisting form, becoming function, disavowing function, or creating new functions*.

For closure, some of the smocks use a traditional interlocking buckle, some “D” rings, and some of them use a quick clip – which is somewhere between an alligator clip and a slide-loc. Each smock ties together in the front, but under the front panel using a light material.

*As you can see in the text – sewing/building with textiles – becomes an easily confusing endeavor when you put form and function side by side, it is quite circular no matter how many times you cut it.

(The following text has been omitted as crucial to the post. It only discusses the earliest smocks and is therefore connected, but slightly under-sighted. “…So far the Brother has been used to build six of these peculiar articles, in three phases. The first four were a result from building the initial courier bag (“V” Bag) that came from the street banner material and the tarping. Going with this, new tarping was sourced out and used as the outer shell for these initial four, two of which were lined with a drop-cloth (the kind that house painters use) material, one of which was lined with denim, and another lined with a stretch/suit-like material (plaid patterned). Once these four were built, two were sent off for the smockshop, and two remained for further alterations – mainly incorporating exterior pockets out of the left over scraps, which had an odd shape that called to be used. The last two smocks were the initial endeavor into the Dow Weathermate material. With these the idea was to keep it simple and create lightweight smocks that are very water-repellent and also able to release underlying/building vapors. They went together well and the Teflon foot worked like a charm on the sticky surface of the Dow material.”)