On Thread – Still Complicated [part two of two of more to come]

Because this string of thoughts continues to unravel and then fumble upon itself, we will discuss this second edition on thread, in 3 sections. The first section will talk about a few technical things of thread construction that we missed last time, the second section will record notes on new threads being used currently, and the last section will follow up with further questions, concerns, and any other fleating thoughts on fibrous elements that have been wound together.

Section 1 – Technical Topics:

winding of thread

Core spun thread

Section 2 – New Threads on The Block:

100% Linen (hand sewing thread)

Coats&Clark “Button & Carpet” thread

Coats&Clark DB-92 100% polyester Thread

100% Linen (wax coated hand sewing thread)

Section 3 – The Thread Topic Continues to Expand:

Over the last several (several) months a few new threads have been worked with, opening up a little more of the stitching window. Some of the thread has been for hand stitching, and some of it for use on the Brother DB2-B791-015. This has raised questions like, which direction the thread is wound (left or right, left hand thread being what most all sewing machines require), what coatings on the thread do to ease use or strength, and what happens when threads stretch.

As has been noted in recent posts, the Coats&Clark “button & carpet” thread has finally been mastered. The stiff and dense thread mainly needed two things; higher tension settings, and a more suitable needle size. The material chosen to test it with was several layers of rawhide, and several layers of dive belt webbing, on separate occasions (the rawhide used for the Chukka/Desert Boots, and the dive belt webbing used on the Mini “Messenger” bag). It is clear now that the Coats&Clark “button & carpet” thread is very dependable thread which offers superior strength and clean stitching for something so easily found (it is available at almost all sewing & craft stores). Part of it’s strength comes from dual compound fibers. Apparently what the “button & carpet” thread is, is a polyester sheathing with cotton core. What this should be doing is keeping the overall gauge of it down, but integrity up. Theoretically, the cotton core provides the strength, and the polyester sheathing makes it less susceptable to abrasion in high-stress, high-friction, sewing conditions.

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