On Thread – Still Complicated [part two of two of more to come]

Because this string of thoughts continues to unravel and then fumble upon itself, we will discuss this second edition on thread, in 3 sections. The first section will talk about a few technical things of thread construction that we missed last time, the second section will record notes on new threads being used currently, and the last section will follow up with further questions, concerns, and any other fleating thoughts on fibrous elements that have been wound together.

Section 1 – Technical Topics:

winding of thread

Core spun thread

Section 2 – New Threads on The Block:

100% Linen (hand sewing thread)

Coats&Clark “Button & Carpet” thread

Coats&Clark DB-92 100% polyester Thread

100% Linen (wax coated hand sewing thread)

Section 3 – The Thread Topic Continues to Expand:

Over the last several (several) months a few new threads have been worked with, opening up a little more of the stitching window. Some of the thread has been for hand stitching, and some of it for use on the Brother DB2-B791-015. This has raised questions like, which direction the thread is wound (left or right, left hand thread being what most all sewing machines require), what coatings on the thread do to ease use or strength, and what happens when threads stretch.

As has been noted in recent posts, the Coats&Clark “button & carpet” thread has finally been mastered. The stiff and dense thread mainly needed two things; higher tension settings, and a more suitable needle size. The material chosen to test it with was several layers of rawhide, and several layers of dive belt webbing, on separate occasions (the rawhide used for the Chukka/Desert Boots, and the dive belt webbing used on the Mini “Messenger” bag). It is clear now that the Coats&Clark “button & carpet” thread is very dependable thread which offers superior strength and clean stitching for something so easily found (it is available at almost all sewing & craft stores). Part of it’s strength comes from dual compound fibers. Apparently what the “button & carpet” thread is, is a polyester sheathing with cotton core. What this should be doing is keeping the overall gauge of it down, but integrity up. Theoretically, the cotton core provides the strength, and the polyester sheathing makes it less susceptable to abrasion in high-stress, high-friction, sewing conditions.

Preface: The Fashion District

The Fashion District photos are starting to come in and there will hopefully be new posts based upon them in the next week or so. There will be a section to display the various industrial sewing machine shops, and their corresponding contact info plus some short reviews of what may make them different from the rest. A section for a (recently discovered although certainly not new to the industry) machine that is marketed towards sewing sleeves and or pant legs, which clears up a lot of interest in how certain leg-forms are built (although it is not an end-all factor by any means, you can make all sorts of flat-felled seams, or actual industry standard double-lap seams on any basic drop-feed machine with a standard bed). Also there should be a post for a few new Presser feet that have been discovered – this should lead into a more adept photo review of the Brother’s current feet. Another article on some of the post-style machines that were found, which are often used by cobblers and bag makers to sew very hard to reach places (post-style machines include horizontal and vertical posts, with the feed mechanism being in an assortment of places at the ends of those posts). And then a few other miscellaneous posts (not to be confused with the posts of the post-style machines). for some of the aesthetically pleasing images that were captured of unique machines,

Up To Date.2 [news from the district]

So there were a lot of small threads today that started to find a way about which is starting to help explain the presser foot dilema.  After talking to about eight or nine or sixteen different people it became apparent that no “gated” or “guide” type presser foot is actually made for a needle feed machine.  Many of the shops in the Los Angeles fashion district had suggested that the presser feet for regular drop feed machines be used, and therefore customized either with a Dremel tool, milling machine, drill bit, etc.  Some of the shops were willing to take all of the Brother’s unusable feet and customize them – which – if nothing else is a good sign that this is at least done once in awhile and is not entirely absurd.  However, there was one shop (Eddy Sewing Machine) that assured there are actually feet made for a needle feed machine with the guides, but because of how low demand is for them, they would cost up to $75 a piece.  Of course for $75 one would figure to just customize their drop feed feet which only cost them between $2 and $15 (food for thought; three new feet were bought for the Brother [obviously with the intention of customizing them] at the price of $12 for all three – and that was for the very best quality “Linko” feet – whereas in other areas of the country they are much more expensive, in Chicago a single presser foot of lower quality will cost you at least $12).  Although (however.2) at the same shop (Eddy Sewing Machine) they had “gated” or “guide” type presser feet for a needle feed Singer 111(?).  unfortunately these have a different shape in regards to the way they mate up to the machine, so they were out of the question.  Either way, when all is said and done at the end of the day – more is said than done – well actually, if nothing else aside from the peculiar $75 presser feet that only one shop had to offer, it stands that no presser feet are provided for needle feed machines of the same type as the Brother DB2-B791-o15.  This is okay, it is what was expected and at this rate not very surprising considering all the little technicalities that arise when using industrial sewing machines.